Can a coffee be too perfect?
That's the criticism leveled at the coffees from Costa Rica - too balanced, too clean, too mild. We categorize this type of coffee as the "classic cup," the traditional balanced coffee that has no defects or taints. Coffee cuppers call it "clean." But there's can be more to a Costa Rican coffee. They are prized for their high notes: bright citrus or berry-like flavors in the acidity. And in the best cups they fade into chocolate or spice flavors in the aftertaste ...
While particular Costa Rican farms (fincas) receive an undue amount of attention, coffee drinkers are wise to remember there are 130,000 large and small farms. The chance that any one will be the best from year to year is remote. The problem in Costa Rica is they have promoted a system where coffee is sold as "brands" developed by the mill (beneficio) rather than by distinct lots of coffee from particular farms. We evaluate every coffee by the cup quality, not the route to market ... but I personally would like to see this beneficio "brand" notion abandoned. In most cases our coffee is designated by farm. Another problem: Catimor, the coffee varietal that has great yield per tree but inferior cup. We try to avoid it, if I can detect it is present. It is used in Costa Rica in the cultivars "Costa Rica 95" and "Catimor 5175"
You are going to notice that a lot of our Costa Ricans come from Tarrazú in the southern pacific region, as is Volcan Poas. The fact is, Tarrazú is the most densely planted high altitude region, although the south central region abutting Panama is producing more each year. But Tarrazú is celebrated as the region in Costa Rica for the best soils and highest altitudes, but I regularly cup the coffees from other regions too. It just happens that there are streaks where the Tarrazú's seem to beat the all others in blind cupping. Not only that, but the coffees from Tarrazú show a wide range of flavors in the cup. There are decent Tres Rios or Tres Volcanes out there, even a very nice coffee from the Atlantic side (the Juan Vinas, Orosi). I am going to poke around Naranjo region for coffee ... I think there is a lot of possibilities there, as an alternative to Tarrazu and Tres Rios. Another problem: coffee with the Tarrazú name has received such attention that coffees are being sold as Tarrazú when they are 100 miles outside the region. (The same problem arises with the Antigua name in Guatemala). While the verity of an origin is of great concern, the cup character is of greater concern. I have definitely cupped many Tarrazú coffees that do not live up to the name, and many non-Tarrazús that are better. This is the benefit of the blind-cupping process. As coffee tradespeople and consumers, we need to seek truth in the regional differences, and also avoid getting hung up on "brand names" as the ultimate determination of quality ...its a tough balancing act but singular attention to cup quality will prevail!
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